Last checked: October 22, 2026

Getting a new well drilled

Building on rural land, replacing a well that failed, or giving up on a shallow dug well? A new well is a big job with its own permits, contracts and paperwork. This guide walks through it in order, from permits to the first water test, with sources for every rule and number. For how the finished system works, see your well system explained.

1. Permits and rules

• Ask first. EPA suggests your state well-contractor licensing agency or local health department for advice on proper well construction where you live.¹ Many states and counties require a permit or notice before drilling, and some set their own construction rules. Pennsylvania, for example, has no statewide construction or siting standards for private wells, though some municipalities do.²
• Who gets the permit. Often the driller handles it, but confirm. Illinois Extension's well-planning checklist suggests getting a written estimate that covers the drilling permit,³ and NGWA's finished-well checklist says to make sure the necessary permits were obtained.⁴
• Water-withdrawal permits are mostly for big users. Many states set a threshold of about 100,000 gallons a day, far above household use, but there are exceptions: in the Southwest Florida Water Management District, for example, a well 6 inches or wider at the surface needs an individual water use permit.¹⁴ See who regulates big groundwater pumpers.
• State details: your state page links the state well program where we cover it, and who regulates private wells explains the overall picture.

2. Choose a licensed driller

EPA recommends drillers and pump installers who are bonded and insured, and licensed and certified where your state requires it.¹ Check the license yourself with the state, and ask (from NGWA's hiring advice):¹³

• Are you licensed, registered or certified by the state for this work? Is the person supervising the job certified? (NGWA offers voluntary certification.)
• What liability and workers' compensation insurance do you carry?
• Will you file the well log, and will I get a copy?⁴
• Can I talk to recent customers?¹⁵ Will you give me a written contract?

Get more than one estimate. Our directory of licensed well drillers lists businesses from official state and county license lists, with the source for each entry, plus questions to ask before hiring.

3. What affects the cost

The biggest variables are depth, well diameter, the rock or soil being drilled, and what else is included. Published figures we could verify:

• NGWA's Well Owners Guide (2021) cites survey data of about $24 per foot for a 4-inch well and about $30 per foot for a 6-inch well; its examples are $2,880 to drill a 120-foot 4-inch well and $6,600 for a 220-foot 6-inch well. It puts a typical household submersible pump at $3,000–$3,200 and a jet pump at about $1,545–$1,570.⁵
• Other charges can include casing, grout, the cap, a screen, test pumping, disinfection, the water line to the house and the pressure tank.⁵

NGWA, a trade association, says these figures are a general indication, not exact costs for any area, and that costs vary over time and by location.⁵ They're also from 2021. Treat them as a rough guide and get local quotes. More cost context is in private well vs city water.

4. Where the well goes: siting and septic setbacks

• Keep it away from contamination. EPA says a well should be located so rainwater flows away from it, because rainwater can pick up bacteria and chemicals and seep in if it pools nearby.¹
• Septic distances are set by the state or county. Two published examples: Georgia's well standards and FHA's minimum for new construction both call for 50 feet from a septic tank and 100 feet from the drain field.⁸⁹ Your local rule may differ.
• Not inside the house. Minnesota, for example, says a well can't be built inside a building other than a dedicated well house.¹⁰
• Plan for access. A drill rig and, later, a pump service truck need to reach the well.
• Your old well. If you're replacing a well, the old one usually needs to be properly sealed. Minnesota notes sealing can cost less when a contractor is already on site drilling the new well.¹¹

5. What the quote and contract should include

NGWA says an itemized list of charges is better than a lump sum, because you can't compare offers otherwise, and recommends a written contract.⁵¹³ Look for:

• Price per foot of drilling and per foot of casing, plus casing diameter and material
• Grout, drive shoe, well cap and screen; well development, test pumping and disinfection
• What happens and what it costs if they must drill deeper, drill a second hole, or seal a dry hole (Illinois Extension suggests the estimate cover "dry" holes)³
• The pump, pressure tank, wiring, pitless adapter and the water line to the house, if they're part of the job
• Who gets the permit, who files the well log, and site cleanup (NGWA says your agreement sets the cleanup terms)⁵
• Warranties on the pump and other equipment

More detail is in our directory's what to check on a quote.

6. The drilling process, step by step

From NGWA's descriptions of how a drilled well is built:⁶⁵

1. Drilling the borehole. A portable rig drills down to water-bearing rock or sediment. Common methods for household wells include rotary, cable tool, down-the-hole and reverse circulation drilling. Household wells range from less than 100 feet to 500 feet or more.
2. Casing and grout. Casing (steel or plastic, typically PVC) lines the upper part or all of the hole, and a grout seal of cement or bentonite is often recommended around it to keep contamination out.
3. The intake. Below the casing, water enters through open hole in bedrock or through a screen and gravel pack, depending on the geology.
4. Development. Loose material from drilling is cleared out (with compressed air, bailing, jetting, surging or pumping) so water flows freely. NGWA says proper development can sometimes make a poor well a good one.
5. Yield test. The amount of water the well produces is usually measured during development, before a pumping test. NGWA says the minimum test time is one hour.
6. Disinfection and cap. After disinfection, the well is capped with a vented, screened cap until it's connected to the house.
7. The rest of the system. The water line to the house, pump and wiring, pressure tank, and any treatment equipment are installed.

If drilling hits poor-quality water, it can sometimes be sealed off with more casing; if not, NGWA says the well must be abandoned and completely sealed.⁶

7. Before you drink: disinfection and the first test

• Disinfect. NGWA says a well should be disinfected after construction and before the water is used, and that water from a new well should test free of bacteria before use.⁷
• Test. Use a state-certified lab. At minimum, test for what CDC recommends every year: total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH.¹² Add the contaminants that are common in your area; your county page lists local recommendations where we cover it. Check the results with the free Well Test Results Checker.
• If bacteria show up, the well can be disinfected again and retested; see shock chlorinating a well.

8. Inspect the finished well and get your well log

NGWA's finished-well checklist suggests checking, before the crew leaves:⁴

• Depth, compared with the well construction report
• Yield: how many gallons per minute it tested, how far the water level dropped, and how fast it recovered
• The cap: secure, vented, and at least 6 inches above ground or your state's requirement (often more)
• Disinfection: ask whether it was done
• Pump and pressure system paperwork: model, ratings, serial numbers and warranties
• Your copy of the well log. NGWA says the contractor is required to give the owner a copy, and advises keeping it with your house deed for future owners.

9. How long it takes

NGWA says drilling itself can take hours or days, depending on depth, geology and drilling method. The rest of the system (water line, pump, wiring, pressure tank and any treatment) is a second phase, and extra water storage, if needed, adds time.⁵ Permits, the driller's schedule and lab turnaround for the first water test add to the total, so ask each driller for a realistic start date.

Related guides

• Your well system explained
• How a private well works
• If your property already has a well
• Private well vs city water: pros, cons and costs
• Who regulates big groundwater pumpers?